Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Julia Child The French Chef- Salade Nicoise

I was reading a comment from a reader in The Guardian this morning in response to some bean recipes by Yotam Ottolenghi. The reader posted a youtube link mentioning Julia Child and salade Nicoise so for me it was an automatic response to investigate.

I sat mesmerised watching Julia and, more importantly, listening. Her French accent (listen to her buying potatoes in the market) and very own special way with a turn of phrase is just delightful!

I love a good salade Nicoise. The best was eaten some years ago in Le Lavandou in the south of France. I suspect the memory is helped by the very happy time we spent there. It was only for a week but living in Suffolk in the UK at the time we thought it was worth the drive just to see some sun. The food fulfilled all my romantic expectations and I remember that salade Nicoise, and the lovely rose wine I had with it, so vividly!

The worst salade Nicoise, is without a doubt, one I had in Paris a couple of years ago. It was the French summer holidays and many cafes were closed. This one was unfortunately open.What they were thinking I do not know.

Salade Nicoise is one of my 'go to' dishes when I just need something to cheer me up or when I need something to prepare ahead to serve to a good number of people. If I am preparing a fair way ahead I keep the lettuce separate to all the other ingredients, as I have done in the photos below, and then close to serving time I dress the lettuce and allow people to help themselves to the rest of the salad. If it is just at home I assemble as I go along which is the method I will give you now.

I haven't really changed my recipe/method much over the last 30 odd years (yes, I was making it when Julia was making it). Sometimes I use little chat potatoes when they are lovely and new and certainly don't peel them then. Other times I will steam waxy potatoes and I skin them after peeling. I dress the potatoes while they are still warm.
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What is missing in the photos here are the black olives which I forgot to put in until I sat down and realised something was dreadfully wrong! Julia adds capers but I never have. I love the salt of the anchovy, the tuna and the olives and don't really feel the need for capers but throw them in if you like.

The salad will be as good as the ingredients you use. I made this in summer when I had my own tomatoes and beans growing, in fact that is why I chose to make the salad.

I know that many people like fresh tuna in their salad. I love fresh tuna but in this recipe it is always good quality tinned tuna in olive oil for me. I use Sirena brand tuna in olive oil. It is the same with the anchovies. You do not want the marinated white ones here. I love the Ortiz brand of anchovies but they are not cheap so  find a brand you like without sending you broke. The dressing can be varied but I have two, both including garlic. One uses lemon juice as the acid and the other red wine vinegar. I think I prefer the red wine vinegar but it is personal choice.

I imagine the Guardian commenters would find something to tongue lash me about in my salade Nicoise but I think Julia would say it was pretty good.

The quantities of each ingredient are up to you. Both Julia and I agree on the dressing of the layers as you put it together. These quantities are enough for two at least with some bread on the side.

INGREDIENTS ( in the order they go onto the plate)
Lettuce leaves
Steamed new or waxy potatoes, skinned and cut into desired size
Fresh baby beans, blanched
1 can 425g tuna in olive oil
Finely sliced red onion
8-10 cherry tomatoes, halved
2-3 boiled eggs, cut into quarters
black olives, stoned and sliced in half
anchovies, as many as you like
parsley, chopped

For the dressing
1-2 cloves garlic crushed with sea salt
Juice of a lemon or 1 tblsp red wine vinegar
2-3 tblsp ev olive oil or to your taste.

METHOD
Layer the dressed lettuce on your platter or individual plates. Top with the dressed potato and then the beans. Now place the drained tuna on top keeping it in chunky pieces and then the onion. Place your tomatoes, eggs and anchovies on top and sprinkle with parsley. When just about to serve drizzle some more of the garlicky dressing over the top.   



2 comments:

  1. a great post, al from the shaky isles wants to try. great writing by the way. I was there. here and near.

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  2. Thanks Al, feedback appreciated.

    ReplyDelete